Saturday, January 16, 2010

First Days Gugeegue (01/10/10)


I finally arrived to Gugeegue yesterday! After a quick plane ride, I arrived at the Kwajelein US Military base. After being shuttled about, we were finally dropped in a holding area to wait for our luggage before leaving the base by boat. I quickly realized everyone knew who I was, and was dubbed the new WorldTeach teacher. While I was initially told I would be working at the elementary school on Ebeye, I had also heard word that I may be switched to the high school on Gugeegue. While waiting for my bags, I met the daughter of both a teacher at the elementary school and the highschool principal. Another woman next to me knew that someone from the elementary school had come to pick me up, and without my knowledge, they had gone looking for her. I realized quickly that word spreads instantaneously here.

I was finally met by the familiar face of my roommate Morgan who was nice enough to come meet me and we took a water taxi to Ebeye. While the boat was small and speeding to the point where it felt like a rollercoaster, the sun was shining and the water was a turquoise blue. I was definitely not in Majuro anymore.

The water taxi docked in Ebeye, the ½ square mile or so filled with thousands and thousands of people. It actually wasn’t as bad as I’d expected. I was predicting and aura of slums and poverty, but while houses were shack-like and built upon each other, everyone seemed friendly enough and the community seemed safe.

While we had made it to Ebeye, Gugeegue was still 5 miles away on a tiny road connecting the islands made of sand, gravel, rocks, and massive pot holes. Fortunately, we were able to get in touch with the elementary school (where I still wasn’t sure I’d be teaching) and they sent someone to drive us.

Arriving at our housing was nothing short of appalling. After initially being placed on an outer island which would have no amenities, I walked into Morgan and my apartment- a spacious two bedroom full furnished American style apartment. It has AC, large beds, a full kitchen, and even a little tv for dvds. You wouldn’t even know you were in the Marshall Islands while sitting in it. Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised.

Guegeegue is a small island community, with 100 or so people living on it. There are 2 high schools, one being a private catholic school and the other is the Kwajalein atoll high school (about 30 steps from my door front). Standing in the middle of the island, you can see the water on either side of you- the ocean on one and the lagoon on the other (the Kwajalein lagoon is the largest in the world). Guegeegue town is about a minute walk away and consists of two short rows of houses. Unfortunately, though the water is beautiful, there is little beach, mainly just rocks.

While it is beautiful here, I would have maybe sacrificed the luxury of my apartment for a more traditional area for the cultural experience, as many around us speak English and are familiar with the western cultures. Spearfishing, outrigger canoes, amimono (traditional crafts), and other traditions that seemed so common in the outer islands don’t seem to take place here. It leaves an awkward space between Marshallese traditions and western life. Most activities of western life are not entirely available to us here, yet neither are the Marshallese. I’m assuming it’s going to be very easy to get bored here, so I’ll just have to be creative. So much for learning to spearfish…

The climate is very dry and windy, as the rainy season has passed. Everything isn’t green with flowers like on Samoa. With the dry season also comes water shortage. We have a catchment behind out apartment, and have to be very thoughtful about our water usage.

I live with Morgan, who is a recent college graduate like myself. Across the yard lives Marci, another WorldTeach volunteer who works at Brandeis in Waltham. Both Morgan and Marci work at the high school and have been extremely welcoming.

Other than some wine making with some neighbors (it’s hard to come by here), I haven’t experienced much else of Gugeegue, and I’m sure my first impressions will change as they do.


This is pretty much the whole island of Gugeegue, other than the 2 high schools, an old rotting helicopter pad, and a few houses, there isnt much too it. As you can see, there is water all around us.

the apartment:







World War 2 wrecks are all around



Our backyard:

1 comment:

  1. I lived on Gugeegue island 1965-1967. I was a technician for "Kentron Hawaii ltd" The island was used as a high power SSB transmitting facility for the Nike project. Lot of fun

    ReplyDelete